---
title: "Roof Repair and Replacement"
url: "https://ocrv.vip/rv-roof-repair"
business: "OCRV Center"
phone: "(949) 799-3387"
address: "23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887"
serviceArea: "Lake Forest, Orange County, California"
description: "Membrane, fiberglass and aluminum roof repair, resealing, recoating and full replacement, including decking repair and every rooftop penetration."
---

# Roof Repair and Replacement in Lake Forest, CA

Roof repair and replacement covers the entire top surface of a coach: EPDM rubber and TPO membranes, one piece fiberglass and aluminum roofs, the decking beneath the covering, and every vent, fan, skylight and air conditioner penetration through it. Scope is decided by whether the substrate under the covering is still sound.

Category: Roof, Slide Out and Awning
Ballpark range: $3,500 to $18,000 and up, 20 to 80 hours

Ranges are planning figures. The written estimate is produced after the vehicle is inspected at the shop.

## What owners notice first

- Black or grey streaks running down the sidewalls from the roof edge
- Sealant at a vent or seam that has cracked, shrunk or lifted at an edge
- A soft or spongy area underfoot when walking the roof
- Ponding water that sits after rain instead of draining off the edge
- A membrane seam that has opened or a patch that is lifting
- Staining on the interior ceiling near a vent, a fan or a cap seam
- Screws backing out of a termination bar or an air conditioner shroud

## EPDM rubber and the streaks it leaves on your sidewalls

EPDM is a single ply rubber membrane bonded to the roof deck with an adhesive, and it is what sits on top of a very large share of towables and gas coaches. Its defining behavior surprises owners: it is designed to chalk. The top layer of the membrane sacrifices itself to ultraviolet exposure and washes off, which is what produces the black streaks down the sides of the coach after rain. That chalking is normal aging, not failure, and washing it off periodically is a cosmetic exercise rather than a repair.

What does fail on an EPDM roof is everything around the membrane. The self leveling lap sealant at the penetrations dries, shrinks and cracks. The termination bars at the cap seams loosen. Patches applied with the wrong product delaminate at the edge. And the membrane itself, once the top layer has chalked away over enough seasons, becomes thin enough that a branch or a foot lands through it. Punctures and cuts in otherwise sound EPDM are genuinely repairable with a bonded patch of matched material, provided the deck under them is dry.

Product compatibility matters more here than anywhere else on the vehicle. EPDM needs sealants and adhesives formulated for EPDM. A silicone caulk applied over a rubber roof is worse than nothing: it does not bond well, it traps water underneath, and it makes the surface impossible to seal properly later because nothing sticks where silicone has been. A significant share of the roof work we do begins with removing somebody's previous repair before anything else can happen.

- Failed lap sealant removed completely rather than covered with a fresh bead
- Bonded EPDM patches on punctures and cuts where the deck below is dry
- Self leveling sealant on horizontal surfaces, non sag product on vertical ones
- Silicone contamination from previous repairs removed before resealing
- Termination bars at the cap seams reset and rebedded

## TPO membranes and heat welded repair

TPO is a thermoplastic membrane and it has been steadily displacing EPDM on newer units. It is stiffer, it does not chalk, it holds a white surface that stays visibly white, and it resists dirt pickup far better. Owners generally like it. The property that matters most to a repair shop is that TPO is thermoplastic, meaning it can be heat welded to itself, so a patch or a seam becomes a homogeneous piece of material rather than two pieces held together by adhesive.

That welding capability makes TPO repairs excellent when they are done with the right equipment and unreliable when they are not. A properly welded patch is stronger than the surrounding membrane. A TPO patch glued down with a general purpose adhesive is a temporary measure that will lift at the edge the first hot season. We weld TPO with temperature and speed controlled equipment and test the seam mechanically before calling it done.

TPO's stiffness is also why it telegraphs the deck below it more than EPDM does. Where a rubber roof will drape over a slightly deflected substrate and hide it, TPO will show a low spot as visible ponding. That is useful diagnostic information: standing water on a TPO roof after everything else has drained is frequently pointing at deck softening or a bow that has lost its crown, and that is a structural finding rather than a drainage complaint.

## One piece fiberglass and aluminum roofs

A one piece fiberglass roof is a molded laminate with a gelcoat surface, common on higher trim coaches and on many fifth wheels. It is walkable without decking concerns in most areas, it does not chalk in the way EPDM does, and it lasts a very long time. Its failure modes belong to composite repair rather than membrane repair: gelcoat crazing from ultraviolet exposure and flexing, spider cracks radiating from a stress point such as a ladder mount or a roof rack foot, and impact fractures that penetrate the laminate.

Repairing those is body shop work. Cracks are ground out to sound laminate, the area is layered up with resin and reinforcement, then faired, primed and refinished with gelcoat or paint to match. Because the roof is a visible surface on a fifth wheel that gets looked at from above at a campground or from a second story, the finish quality actually matters and it is done to the same standard as a sidewall repair.

Aluminum roofs turn up on older trailers and on certain riveted construction units. They are seamed and riveted rather than bonded, so the leak paths are the seams, the rivet lines and the penetrations, and the repair vocabulary is sealing tape, butyl, rivets and panel section replacement. Corrosion at a dissimilar metal contact point is a specific thing to look for, because an aluminum roof fastened with the wrong hardware will corrode at every fastener and each of those becomes a small leak.

## Vents, fans, skylights and the air conditioner gasket

Every rooftop component is a hole with something sealed into it, and the components fail on their own schedule independent of the roof. Vent lids go brittle and shatter, often on the freeway rather than in a storm. Fan motors seize. Skylight domes over the shower craze, yellow and eventually crack, and because that dome sits directly above a wet area the leak it produces is easy to misread as a plumbing problem. Refrigerator and plumbing vent caps split. Antenna and solar mounting feet loosen and work their sealant open.

The air conditioner gasket deserves special attention because it is the single most common roof leak we find and it is almost always misdiagnosed. The unit sits over the roof opening on a thick foam gasket that is compressed by the mounting bolts from inside the coach. That gasket takes a permanent set over years. The bolts are meant to be tightened to a compressed gasket dimension rather than to a torque, and over tightening crushes the foam so it no longer seals, while under tightening leaves a gap. A coach with water appearing near the air conditioner ceiling assembly needs the gasket replaced and the unit reset, not more sealant around the outside of the shroud.

When we replace a rooftop component the opening gets treated properly rather than being buttered with sealant. Old sealant and butyl come off completely, the deck around the opening is checked for softening, new butyl goes under the flange, fasteners land in sound material, and the perimeter is finished with the right sealant for the roof material. Sealant alone is a wear item with nothing behind it. Butyl under the flange plus sealant on top is a two layer system, and that is what actually lasts.

## Recoat, reseal or replace: how the decision is made

Three different jobs get referred to as roof work and they differ by an order of magnitude in cost. Resealing renews the sealant at the penetrations, the seams and the perimeter while leaving the membrane alone. It is maintenance, it is the cheapest thing you will ever do to a roof, and it prevents most of the expensive outcomes. Recoating adds a liquid applied elastomeric membrane over the entire existing roof, which restores a continuous surface and adds ultraviolet protection. Replacement strips the old covering off and installs new material.

The decision is driven by the condition of the membrane and the deck, not by the age of the coach. If the membrane is intact and only the sealant has failed, reseal. If the membrane is aged, chalked thin or has multiple small repairs but the deck below is dry and firm, a recoat over a properly prepared surface is a legitimate and cost effective answer. If the membrane is split across its field, if there are soft areas in the deck, or if water has already been getting in for seasons, replacement is the only version that resolves anything.

One thing we will not do is recoat over a wet deck. A coating is a vapor barrier. Applied over decking that already holds moisture, it seals the water in with nowhere to go and accelerates the rot it was supposed to prevent. Before any recoat we take moisture readings across the roof and inside at the ceiling, and if the readings are not clean the conversation changes to a replacement conversation.

## Full replacement and the decking nobody sees

The membrane is the cheap part of a roof replacement. Under it is the decking, usually a thin lauan or composite skin bonded to block foam over the roof bows, or on older construction a plywood deck fastened to wood or aluminum bows. That structure is what the membrane is bonded to, and if it has been wet it has lost strength whether or not it looks bad. Bonding new material over soft decking wastes the new material, so the deck is inspected and repaired before anything goes down.

This is the honest reason a roof replacement estimate can grow after the old covering comes off. Nobody, including us, can see the condition of decking through an intact membrane. We take moisture readings from above and below beforehand and they tell us a great deal, but the definitive answer arrives when the roof is open. Where the readings suggest trouble, we say so in the estimate and give a range rather than a single number, and any deck repair is documented with photographs and authorized before it is performed.

The rebuild sequence is deck repair, insulation replacement where it got wet, new membrane or covering bonded down, then every penetration reinstalled with fresh butyl and correct sealant, then the cap seams terminated and sealed. Everything that was on the roof comes off and goes back rather than being sealed around, because a component that stays in place during a roof replacement is a leak that survives the repair. The air conditioner, the vents, the fans, the antenna and the solar array all get pulled and reset.

## The front and rear cap seams

On most coaches the roof membrane ends where the molded front and rear caps begin, and that transition is closed with a termination bar, a trim strip or a bonded lap, bedded in butyl and finished with sealant. It is the highest stress joint on the roof: two different materials with different expansion rates, meeting at the point that takes the most wind and the most flex, held together by fasteners that road vibration is working on continuously.

It is also the leak that produces the most confusing symptoms. Water entering at a front cap seam runs down inside the overhead structure and shows up at the front bunk on a Class C, at the top of the windshield on a Class A, or at the front wall of the bedroom on a fifth wheel, which sends people looking at windows and cap seals rather than at the roof edge. Any interior water finding at the very front or the very back of a coach means the cap seam gets inspected first.

Repair means taking the joint apart rather than adding sealant to the outside of it. The bar or trim comes off, old butyl and sealant are removed completely, the substrate is checked and dried, fasteners are moved slightly or upsized where the holes have elongated, fresh butyl goes under, and the assembly is reset and sealed. Running a bead over a failed seam from outside hides it for a season and lets the water keep working underneath in the meantime.

## How the work runs

1. Roof survey. The whole roof is walked and photographed: membrane condition, every penetration, both cap seams, the perimeter, and any previous repair. Soft areas are found by foot and confirmed by sounding. Rooftop components are checked individually because they age on their own schedule.

2. Moisture readings. Readings are taken across the deck and at the interior ceiling with a pinless meter, gridded so the result is a map rather than an impression. Those numbers decide whether the job is a reseal, a recoat or a replacement, and they are recorded in the file with the survey photographs.

3. Scope and authorization. You get a written scope that says which of the three jobs is appropriate and why. Where readings suggest the deck may be compromised, we quote a range and state plainly what would push it to the upper end, so the number does not move without explanation.

4. Strip and inspect. Components come off, old covering is removed, and the deck and bows are inspected directly. Any softened decking, wet insulation or corroded framing is photographed, priced and authorized before it is repaired. Wet insulation is discarded rather than dried.

5. Install and reseal. New covering is bonded down, every penetration is reinstalled on fresh butyl with fasteners in sound material, cap seams are terminated and sealed, and the perimeter is finished. Sealants are matched to the roof material and applied in the correct product for horizontal against vertical surfaces.

6. Water test. The finished roof is flooded zone by zone with the interior monitored and a meter on the ceiling. Nothing leaves on the assumption that it is sealed. The coach is held until the sealants have cured, since a fresh self leveling product needs time before it sees a real weather event.

## Questions

### Why are there black streaks running down the sides of my RV?

That is an EPDM rubber roof doing exactly what it was designed to do. The top layer of the membrane sacrifices itself to ultraviolet exposure and chalks off, and rain carries that chalk over the edge and down the sidewalls. It is normal aging rather than a sign of failure, and it is not evidence that the roof is leaking. What it does mean is that the membrane is thinning over time, so a roof that streaks heavily is worth having assessed for remaining thickness. The streaks themselves come off with a cleaner made for the purpose, and a periodic wash keeps the sidewalls looking right.

### Can I just put a coating over my old roof?

Sometimes, and it is a good value when the conditions are right. A liquid applied elastomeric coating restores a continuous surface and adds ultraviolet protection over a membrane that is aged but still intact and over a deck that is dry. What it cannot do is fix a split membrane or a soft deck. The condition we test for first is moisture, because a coating is a vapor barrier and applying one over decking that already holds water seals the moisture in with nowhere to go, which accelerates the rot it was meant to prevent. If the readings are not clean we recommend replacement instead.

### Water is coming in near my rooftop air conditioner. Is the roof bad?

Usually not. The most common cause is the foam gasket between the air conditioner and the roof opening, which is compressed by the mounting bolts from inside the coach and takes a permanent set over years. Once it has flattened it no longer seals, and water runs down through the opening and into the ceiling assembly. The correct repair is a new gasket with the unit lifted and reset, tightened to a compressed gasket dimension rather than to an arbitrary torque. Adding sealant around the outside of the shroud does nothing, because the water is passing under the unit rather than around it.

### How long does a roof replacement take?

Plan on one to three weeks depending on the size of the coach, the covering being installed and how much deck repair is found once the old material is off. The variable that moves the schedule most is deck condition, which nobody can see through an intact membrane. We take moisture readings beforehand and give you a range with a plain explanation of what would push it to the upper end. Curing time is also real: freshly applied self leveling sealant needs time before it should see weather, so the coach is held rather than released the moment the work looks finished.

### Someone sealed my roof with silicone. Is that a problem?

Yes, and it usually has to come off before anything else can be done. Silicone does not bond reliably to EPDM or TPO, it traps water underneath rather than shedding it, and worst of all it contaminates the surface so that nothing else will stick where it has been. That means the proper sealant cannot be applied over it or beside it. Removing silicone residue from a membrane roof is tedious labor and it is frequently the first line on a roof estimate. It is one of the most expensive shortcuts in the whole category.


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All work is performed at the Yorba Linda facility.
This business does not offer mobile, roadside or on-site service.
It does not perform engine, transmission, drivetrain or DOT inspection work.

Contact: (949) 799-3387 | info@ocrvcenter.com | https://ocrv.vip/contact